Pasta with Vegetable Ragu

• 5 T. olive oil
• 1 lb. wild or button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 1 bulb fennel, halved, cored, and chopped
• 2 large carrots, shredded
• sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 lb. kabocha or butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and chopped
• 3 large garlic cloves, smashed
• 2 T. tomato paste
• pinch of red pepper flakes
• 1/2 tsp. sweet or smoked paprika
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seeds (optional)
• 1 c. dry white or red wine such as sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, or Chianti
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 T. finely chopped fresh thyme
• 3 c. vegetable stock or water
• 1 28 oz. can San Marzano or plum tomatoes in juice
• 1 lb. strozzapreti pasta (or orecchiette, gnocchi, or polenta--we used fusilli)
• soft creamy cheese like fresh ricotta or mascarpone for dolloping
• aged cheese such as pecorino or brebis for grating
• few small fresh mint leaves

Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot or wide heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat.  Add the mushrooms and cook until they begin to brown and release their liquid, 6-8 minutes.  Add the onions, fennel, and carrots and cook until soft and just golden brown, 5-7 minutes.  Season with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. black pepper.

Add the squash, garlic, tomato paste, red pepper flakes, paprika, and fennel seeds and cook until the paste browns and the liquid has almost evaporated, about 1 minute.  Add the wine and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan to get all the good brown bits.  Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.

Add the bay leaf, thyme, and 2 cups of the stock.  Add the tomatoes and their juices, passing them through clean hands on the way to the pot to crush them.  Cook to reduce the sauce slightly, about 15 minutes. 

Add the remaining 1 c. stock and reduce the heat to meduim-low.  Cook, uncovered, at a slow, steady simmer with small bubbles popping up all over the surface of the sauce, for about 1 hour or more (the longer it cooks, the better the flavor) to create a thick sauce studded with vegetables.  Season with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper.  Taste and season with more salt and pepper as needed.

Bring a large pot three-fourths full of salted water to a boil over high heat.  Add the strozzapreti and cook until al dente, about 9 minutes.  Drain, reserving 1/3 c. of the pasta cooking liquid for the sauce.

Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss gently to coat, adding the pasta cooking liquid as needed, 1 T. at a time, to your desired consistency.  Scoop the dressed pasta into shallow bowls and dollop with ricotta.  Grate the pecorino over the top, season with pepper, and sprinkle with mint.  Serve warm.

Serves 4-6.

VERDICT:  This really does take a long time, both chopping and cooking.  It's especially tedious when you have to guard the stovetop constantly from jumping kittens.  However, it is really good.  The mint is a surprisingly excellent addition--don't skip it.  Keep.