Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Whole Lemon Bars

For the crust
• 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour
• ½ cup (65 grams) sugar
• ¼ teaspoon table salt
• ½ cup (115 grams or 1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks, plus extra for greasing pan

For the filling
• 1 small-to-medium-sized lemon (about 4½ ounces or 130 grams, or about 3 inches long)
• 1½ cups (265 grams) sugar
• ½ cup (115 grams or 1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
• 4 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons (15 grams) cornstarch
• ¼ teaspoon table salt

Place a rack in middle of the oven and preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Cut two 12- inch lengths of parchment paper, and trim each to fit the bottom of an 8- inch square baking pan. Press the first sheet into the bottom and up the sides of your pan in one direction, then use the second sheet to line the rest of the pan, running it perpendicular to the first sheet. Lightly butter exposed parts of parchment or coat them with a nonstick cooking spray. Set the pan aside.
 
Make the crust. Blend the flour, sugar, and salt together in the work bowl of a food processor. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture is powdery, but if firmly pinched, will hold the pinched shape. Turn the dough crumbs into the prepared baking pan and press the dough evenly across the bottom and about ½ inch up the sides. Prick the dough all over with a fork and bake for 20 minutes, or until lightly browned. Should any parts bubble up, gently prick them again with a fork. Leave the oven on.
 
Make your filling. Cut your lemon in half, and here's where I need us all to be, briefly, quite fussy.

Is the white part of the skin especially thick?
If the widest part of the white is ¼ inch thick or less, continue on to the next step; your lemon is good to go. If any part of it is thicker than ¼ inch, however, I find it safest to remove the skin from half the lemon or the bitterness of the pith can overwhelm the bars. To remove the skin, place half the lemon cut-side-down on the cutting board, and remove the skin and pith from the entire half in downward cuts and discard it. The second half, even if just as thick, can be used as is.

Cut your lemon halves into thin rings and discard any seeds. Toss the lemon rounds – lemon flesh and peel – in the bowl of your food processor, add the sugar, and run the machine until the lemon is thoroughly puréed, about 2 minutes. Add the butter and again run the machine until the mixture is smooth, scraping down the sides of the work bowl as needed. Add the eggs, cornstarch, and salt and pulse the machine in short bursts until the mixture is evenly combined.

Pour the lemon mixture over the crust and bake it for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the filling is set. You can test this by bumping the pan a little; it should only jiggle slightly. In my oven, I find that the point at which the filling is set is also when the lemon bars start to get very light brown on top.

Let the pan cool completely on rack or in the fridge. Gently cut around the outside of the parchment paper to make sure no sides have stuck, then gently use the parchment "sling" to transfer bars from pan to cutting board. Cut into 16 squares.

Cooking Notes: Most recipes for whole lemon desserts recommend Meyer lemons. I actually prefer these with regular old grocery store lemons; with some modifications (described above) should their skins be extra thick, I find that they have the perfect balance of tart and fragrance. Nevertheless, to make these bars with Meyer lemons, use just one (of similar size and weight) and reduce the sugar to 1 cup (200 grams). You can double the recipe and bake it in a 9-by-13- inch pan as well. 

VERDICT:  I don't like these quite as well as my favorite potluck lemon bars, but they are good and they are a damn sight easier.  The very best part--throwing the whole lemon in the food processor.  Followed closely by only having the food processor bowl to wash.  Keep!

Monday, January 28, 2013

Mango, Berry & Banana Smoothie

Purée 1 very ripe peeled banana (preferably frozen), 2 pitted Medjool dates, 1 cup frozen mango chunks, 3/4 cup coconut water, 1/2 cup frozen blackberries or blueberries, 1/4 cup plain yogurt, and 1 tablespoon ground flaxseeds in a blender until smooth.

Customize it
Keep the bananas and dates for sweetness and body. The rest is up to you: 
 
Liquid:  Don't have coconut water? Use orange juice.
 
Fruits:  Pick tender fruits, like berries, and tropical fruits, such as pineapple. We like the ease and 
texture of store-bought frozen, but fresh (with a few ice cubes) is fine, too. 
 
Thickener: For a lighter, thinner drink, skip the yogurt.

Serves 2; 200 calories.

VERDICT:  I've had better smoothies, made with ingredients I'm more likely to have on hand.  The tiny pieces of date were a little disconcerting, as well.  Toss.

Mediterranean Barley Salad

  • 2 1/4 cups water
  • 3/4 cup uncooked pearl barley
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons grated lemon rind 
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 cup thinly sliced fennel bulb (about 1 small bulb)
  • 1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 
  • 8 pitted kalamata olives, halved
  • 1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1/3 cup chopped walnuts, toasted
Bring 2 1/4 cups water and barley to a boil in a saucepan. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 25 minutes or until tender and liquid is almost absorbed. Cool to room temperature.

Combine lemon rind, lemon juice, olive oil, and mustard in a bowl; stir well with a whisk. Add barley, fennel, and next 6 ingredients (through beans); toss gently. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Garnish with walnuts just before serving. 

Serves 4 (1.25 c. salad, 4 tsp. walnuts); 313 calories.

VERDICT:  I chopped everything while the barley was cooking, then just dumped the barley in hot, and it seemed to turn out fine.  I'm looking forward to leftovers for lunch.  Keep.

Ricotta Gnudi with Quick Pomodoro Sauce

  Gnudi:
  • 16 ounces ricotta (about 2 cups)
  • 1 large egg, beaten to blend
  • 1 large egg yolk, beaten to blend
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano plus more
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus more
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour plus more
Using a slotted spoon, divide gnudi among bowls. Top with Quick Pomodoro Sauce and more Parmesan.

Mix ricotta, egg, egg yolk, pepper, 1/2 cup Parmesan, and 1/2 teaspoons salt in a large bowl until well combined. Add 1/2 cup flour; stir just until combined and mixture forms a ball (mixture will be soft and moist with some bits of ricotta remaining; add more flour by the tablespoonful if it feels wet).

Dust a rimmed baking sheet generously with flour. Using 2 large soup spoons, shape heaping tablespoonfuls of dough into football shapes; place on baking sheet and dust with more flour (you should have 30).

Cook gnudi in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until cooked through and tender, 5-6 minutes (gnudi will quickly float to surface; continue cooking or gnudi will be gummy in the center).

Quick Pomodoro Sauce:
  • 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1/4 teaspoon sugar
  • Kosher salt
Pulse tomatoes with juices in a blender to form a coarse purée. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add tomato purée and sugar and season with salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer gently until sauce is slightly thickened, 10-15 minutes. DO AHEAD: Sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill, or freeze for up to 3 months.

Serves 6; 440 calories.

VERDICT:  I think we were reaching a bit, trying to make gnudi.  They were misshapen and we put them in the wrong bowls, so they fell apart on the eating.  The sauce was easy and quite good, though.  Toss.
   

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Tomato Chickpea Curry

  • 1 tablespoon canola oil
  • 1 cup chopped onion (1 small) 
  • 1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 2 teaspoons garam masala
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
  • 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper
  • 1/2 cup light coconut milk
  • 1 tablespoon chopped seeded jalapeño pepper
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
  • 2 (15 1/2-ounce) cans chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained
  • 1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained 
  • 1 (8-ounce) can no-salt-added tomato sauce
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onion, ginger, and garlic; cook 5 minutes. Stir in garam masala, mustard seeds, and red pepper; cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in coconut milk and remaining ingredients except cilantro; bring to a boil.

Reduce heat, and simmer 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; stir in chopped cilantro.
 
Serves 6 (1 c.); 213 calories.

VERDICT:  I thought this had good depth of flavor for being almost entirely from cans, and there's minimal chopping.  Keep.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Hot Oat and Quinoa Cereal

Bring 1/2 cup dried fruit (such as goji berries, cranberries, or barberries), 1/2 cup steel-cut oats, 1/2 cup well-rinsed quinoa, 1/4 cup raisins, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoons ground cardamom, and 4 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Cover and let sit off heat overnight. (Alternatively, bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until grains are tender, 20-25 minutes.)

Before serving, reheat cereal in saucepan, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed, until warmed through, 5-8 minutes. Serve with milk, maple syrup, toasted shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas), and toasted walnuts.

The ratio of grains to water is the only part that's not ripe for riffs:
Fruits--Swap in chopped dried apricots for the dried fruit, or top with grated apple in fall, fresh peaches in summer.
Grains--Instead of quinoa, use semi-pearled barley for a chunkier texture. 
Nuts and Seeds--Crunch is a must. Try sliced almonds or hemp seeds.

4 servings; 180 calories.

VERDICT:  This could not have been easier, and used up little bits of steel-cut oats and quinoa we had lying around.  Keep!


Chocolate Chip Cookies

  • Canola oil
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1/3 cup low-fat cream cheese
  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup whole-wheat flour
  • 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 package semi-sweet chocolate chips, about 6 ounces
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly coat a baking sheet with canola oil.

In a large mixing bowl, cream butter, cream cheese, and brown sugar on low speed with an electric mixer. Add egg yolks and vanilla and mix on low until just combined.

In a medium bowl, combine remaining ingredients. Add to butter mixture and mix by hand until combined. Portion heaping teaspoonfuls (or use a 3/4 ounce scoop) onto baking sheet about 1 1/2 inches apart. Bake for 7 minutes. Lightly flatten cookies with finger. Rotate baking sheet and bake an additional 3 minutes.

Yields 38 (or perhaps 2 dozen).

VERDICT:  These may not have turned out exactly as written--we made them with Eleanor, and she has little patience for exact measuring and also ate a little bit of the cream cheese--but I think they turned out well, and I don't really like homemade chocolate chip cookies.  Keep.

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Veg-Head Three-Bean Chili

Chili:
  • 2 tablespoons (2 turns around the pan) olive or vegetable oil
  • 1 medium yellow skinned onion, chopped
  • 1 large red pepper, seeded and chopped
  • 1 large green pepper, seeded and chopped
  • 1 large jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
  • 1 cup pale beer or vegetable stock/broth
  • 1 (32- ounce) can crushed tomatoes
  • 1 (14-ounce) can black beans
  • 1 (14-ounce) can dark red kidney beans
  • 1 tablespoon ground cumin
  • 2 tablespoons chili powder
  • 1 tablespoon cayenne hot pepper sauce, several drops
  • 1 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 1 cup spicy vegetarian refried beans
Toppings:
  • 8 ounces (2 cups shredded) spicy monterey jack or smoked cheddar
  • Chopped scallions, whites and greens
  • Diced fresh seeded plum tomato
  • Blue and red corn tortilla chips or black bean tortilla chips, for dipping
Over moderate heat, add oil to a deep pot and combine onion, peppers, and garlic. Saute for 3 to 5 minutes to soften vegetables. Deglaze pan with beer or broth, add tomatoes, black beans, red kidney beans, and stirring to combine.

Season chili with cumin, chili powder, hot sauce, and salt. Thicken chili by stirring in refried beans. Simmer over low heat about 5 to 10 minutes longer, then serve up bowls of chili and top with shredded cheese, scallions, and tomatoes. Place bowls on charger plates piled with assorted tortilla chips.

Serves 4.

VERDICT:   The name of this chili is awful (that's Rachel Ray for you), but it was easy to make and tasted good.  I added the whole can of refried beans, but it was still really liquidy, so I added an additional two cans of whole beans, which helped.   Keep.

Monday, January 7, 2013

Brie Toasts with Eggplant Marmalade

  • 6 cups finely chopped eggplant (about 12 ounces)
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon brown sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1 (14 1/2-ounce) can vegetable broth
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 8 (1 1/2-ounce) slices diagonally cut multigrain bread
  • 4 ounces Brie cheese, cut into 8 slices
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
 
Combine first 7 ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; simmer 30 minutes or until thick, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; stir in garlic. Cool to room temperature.

Preheat broiler.

Arrange bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet; broil 1 minute or until lightly toasted. Top each slice with 1/4 cup eggplant mixture and 1 slice Brie. Broil 1 minute or until cheese melts. Sprinkle with parsley.

Serves 4 (2 toasts); 346 calories.

VERDICT:  Good and easy--I love that you throw everything in one pot and let it cook down and that you essentially only have to chop the eggplant.  Keep.

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Healthy Morning Muffins

  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled)
  • 1/2 cup packed dark-brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
  • 1/2 cup raisins
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large egg
  • 1/3 cup skim milk
  • 4 medium carrots, shredded
  • 1 medium ripe banana, mashed
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat a 12-cup muffin pan with cooking spray. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, brown sugar, baking soda, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt until there are no lumps. Stir in oats and raisins. Add oil, egg, milk, carrots, and banana and stir until blended.

Fill each muffin cup with 1/4 cup batter. Bake until a toothpick inserted in center of a muffin comes out clean, 23 to 25 minutes. Serve muffins warm or at room temperature.
 
Serves 12.
 
VERDICT:  Good!  Based on the batter, which seemed to be entirely made out of carrots, I did not think this was going to work at all, but these muffins turned out beautifully.  I substituted 1/2 c. of whole wheat flour for 1/2 c. of the white flour and used light brown sugar.  I ate one with a salad for lunch and thought myself incredibly healthy.  Keep.

Quinoa-Pumpkin Seed Granola

  • 3/4 cup uncooked quinoa
  • 1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds
  • 1/2 cup whole and/or slivered almonds
  • 1/4 cup flaxseed
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 2 tablespoons canola oil
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 1/4 cup dried cherries, cranberries, golden raisins, and/ or snipped dried apricots

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl combine quinoa, pumpkin seeds, almonds, and flaxseed. Heat honey for 20 seconds in microwave. Stir in oil, cinnamon or salt. Pour over quinoa mixture and stir to combine. Spread onto a baking sheet.

Bake for 20 minutes, stirring twice. Add dried fruit and let cool 15 minutes. Break any large chunks into small pieces and store in airtight container. Store up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.


Serves 13 (1/4 c.); 191 calories.

VERDICT:  My batch is a little burned--I cooked it extra in an effort to dry out the water from rinsing.  Even if not burned, I don't think I'd like it--it's very birdseed-y.  Toss.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Homeroom's Classic Macaroni and Cheese Recipe

For the bechamel:
  • 4 cups (1 quart) whole milk
  • 8 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 stick)
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt
To assemble:
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 pound elbow macaroni
  • 8 ounces shredded 2-year aged sharp cheddar cheese (about 3 cups)
  • 3 ounces grated Pecorino Romano cheese (about 1 cup)
  • 2/3 cup panko (optional)
For the bechamel:
Heat the milk in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until it just comes to a simmer, then turn off the heat and set aside.

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk constantly until the mixture turns light brown in color, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.

While whisking constantly, slowly add the hot milk to the flour mixture until evenly combined and smooth. (It will get very thick when you first add the milk, then thin out.)

Return the saucepan to medium-high heat and while whisking constantly, cook until the sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the salt, taste, and add the remaining salt as desired. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To assemble:
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until it’s almost al dente (just on the edge of being underdone), then drain and rinse with cold water; set aside. (If you plan to top the mac ‘n’ cheese with panko and bake it, heat the oven to 400°F and arrange a rack in the middle.)

Place the reserved saucepan of béchamel over medium heat and stir in both cheeses just until melted and smooth. Add the pasta and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is heated through and steaming, about 2 to 4 minutes. Serve immediately or, if baking, transfer to a 5-quart baking dish, sprinkle with the panko, and bake until bubbling and brown on top, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Serves 6 (generously!).

VERDICT: This may be my new favorite macaroni and cheese recipe.  We baked it in a buttered 2-quart 9x13 and made French Green Bean Salad while it was in the oven.  The panko was unfussy but made a nice crisp layer and the cheesy sauce (made very successfully by John) was good enough that I was scooping it plain out of the saucepan.  The recipe is from Homeroom, a mac-n-cheese only restaurant in California.  Keep.


French Green Bean Salad

  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot (from 1/2 of a small shallot)
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 1 medium garlic clove, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
  • 1 pound haricots verts
  • 1 tablespoon Whole-Grain Dijon Mustard 
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons capers, drained and finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Combine the shallot, vinegar, and garlic in a large, nonreactive bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of heavily salted water to a boil over high heat. Also, prepare the beans by cutting the stem end off of each, leaving the wispy tail on.

When the shallot mixture is ready, add the mustard and measured salt and pepper and whisk until combined. Whisking constantly, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Stir in the capers. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper as needed; set aside.

When the water has reached a boil, add the trimmed beans and cook until crisp-tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain well in a colander and immediately add to the dressing. Using tongs, toss until well coated, then transfer to a flat serving dish. Spoon the remaining dressing over top and sprinkle the beans with the parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature.
 
Serves 6.
 
VERDICT:  Strongly flavored and acidic, but delicious.  We made these for a side with mac and cheese and were able to make it while the casserole baked.  The original recipe is here.  Keep.